Mountain Men and LikkerIn spite of the recent fires in eastern Kentucky, we were able to take our annual fall hiking trip to the Cumberland Gap National Park. One of two National Parks in Kentucky, (Mammoth Cave is the other) CGNP is located in Harlan and Bell counties along the Kentucky-Tennessee-Virginia border. The CGNP boasts over 50 miles of hiking, mostly on ridge top trails. These trails allow for some spectacular views from White Rocks and other overlooks, as well as access to other scenic natural features, and a historic mountain community. We began our hike at the Chadwell Gap trailhead (see Directions at right) around 2pm. Trailhead parking is via private landowner so be considerate. There was a box for parking donations on our first three trips, but it was gone this year. Chadwell Gap trail travels 2.1 miles and gains about 2000 vertical feet before intersecting with the Ridge trail along the Kentucky-Virginia state line. Despite the smoke in the air, we made the trip in about and hour. Just as you get to the top there is a little spur trail that breaks off to the right. This trail leads to the very first overlook, and the rock ledge is a nice place to catch your breath after the "calf burner" you just finished. The sun was shining, although the smoke made the views a little less than picture perfect. The Ridge trail runs 19 miles from the Pinnacle at the southern end of the park to a Civic Park just past White Rocks at the northern end. We took Ridge trail south to a branch trail that lead to the Martin's Fork campground. This campground is by far the best backcountry site in the park. It has several sites for tents, concrete fire rings, picnic tables, a horse pen and a primitive cabin. The cabin has a fireplace, six bunks, and on this trip - one very daring mouse. According to information posted in the cabin this was once the home of Thomas Jefferson Cupp, mountain man and moonshiner. Apparently old Tom Jeff used to "run a little likker" until the time he "departed the hills and valleys of this life". The cabin is available by reservation only (see If You Go at right). After unpacking, we explored the area around the cabin, and did some bouldering before supper. We turned in not long after dinner, in preparation of the real hiking the next day. We awoke Saturday morning to discover that a front was sitting right on the mountains. A gray, moist haze surrounded everything. After breakfast we packed up some water and snacks, and headed out on the trail to Sand Cave, and eventually White Rocks. The hiking was basically easy, and we stopped a couple of times along to way to check out some more boulders. Sand Cave is an immense rock shelter facing the Kentucky side of the ridgeline. It is an amazing natural feature, and a must see on any trip to the area. We have never seen the waterfall that flows here in the spring, but have heard from many people that it is amazing. After a quick drink and some pictures, we got back on the trail to White Rocks. Unfortunately, the combination of smoke and light rain made for not so spectacular views. The view of the Poor Valley and its' surrounding area is normally amazing. We relaxed, took some pictures, ate a little lunch, and did some more bouldering before the increasing rain convinced us to start hiking again. The 4-mile hike back to the cabin was relatively uneventful. We did pass a surprising number of people though. As we were leaving White Rocks there was a group of 12 teenagers and their 3 leaders. A group of 15 college guys riding horses a little farther away, and a group of about 8 adults shortly after that. Everybody appeared to be day hiking only. Back at the cabin, after changing into some dry clothes, we ate hot meal and gathered around the fire. Worn out by the hiking, and relaxed by the fire, we enjoyed the peace and solitude our mountain retreat gave us. This silence was broken, unfortunately, by the group of a dozen young men who came singing into camp around 10:30 that night. My flashlight appearing on the porch of the cabin ended the singing, and they eventually gathered around one of the campsites. In talking to them, I found out they had never been here and had to push themselves hiking to get to water. I gave them the information I had of the area (see If You Go at right), and said good night. The group was gone when we got up the next morning, and so was the smoke. As the front pushed through, it obviously pushed away some of the smoke too. We awoke to a bright, sun filled sky, and considerably warm temperatures. We packed up our stuff, cleaned up the cabin, and set out for the Hensley Settlement. This was our fourth trip to the Park, and only our first to this mountain community. The Hensley Settlement began around 1904, when the first families went up to the hills. At it peak, the settlement was home to around 25 families, mostly Hensley's and Gibbons'. The population dwindled down to a few families and was pretty much deserted by 1936. There are a few building remaining including several small houses, an old school, and cemetery. The Park Service has facilities here as well, and during certain times of the year, volunteers reside here to provide interpretive and educational information to visitors. There is treated water available here via in ground pumps. The water was dirty brown with rust, and we did not drink any. The Park Service locks the pump during the coldest months of the years. After meandering through the area, we headed back to the Chadwell Gap-Ridge Trail intersection. After one last view from the overlook, we descended the trail to our car, arriving shortly before 2pm Sunday afternoon. The final mileage count totaled 16 miles and here's how it broke down: The Cumberland National Park, with it's outstanding view and scenic features offers much for its' visitors. Horseback riders, day hiker and long distance hiker alike will find something to enjoy in the mountain gem. Trotting along its ridgelines, one can not help think about Daniel Boone, or Thomas Jefferson Cupp. It's hard not to wonder whose footsteps you may be following. Take a trip to the Cumberland Gap National Park, and make some footsteps, and perhaps some history, of your own. -George Harbour and Team Uh-Oh back to top |
Info: White Rocks Area, Cumberland Gap (Photo by Brandon Jett) The Cumberland Gap National Park can be reached via U.S. 25E from Kentucky and Tennessee, or U.S. 58 from Virginia. The Visitor Center is on U.S. 25E in Middlesboro, Kentucky. To get to Chadwell Gap, leave the park Visitor center and take 25E through the tunnel. Take U.S. 58 when you cross it. Shortly after passing the Wilderness Road State Park, you will see 690 on your right. This road leads to the parking area described. The parking area and trailhead are off of a driveway, but relatively clearly marked. The Visitor center has maps detailing all this. If You Go: 1. Plan well! Take adequate supplies for your trip, and plan your route in advance. 2. Camping is allowed only in designated backcountry sites. Permits are required for overnight stays and are available at the visitor center. A $10/night fee is charged to use the cabin at Martin's Fork. A key is issued, and reservations are STRONGLY recommended. 3. Practice Leave No Trace guidelines. 4. Use only established latrines or dig a cat hole. 5. Treated (?) water is available at the Hensley Settlement. It should probably be filtered to remove rust and improve the taste. Water can usually be filtered out of the Martin's Fork creek at the campsite that shares its name. Horses use the creek as well so find a spot upstream of where the trail crosses to decrease your risks. It is feasible to think that water could be filtered from the waterfall at Sand Cave during certain months. This option should not, however, be counted on as a reliable source. 6. Keep fires small and use established rings. Use alternate fuel sources when available and call ahead to find out about fire restrictions during your trip. 7. Horses are permitted on most trails. Be aware of this when hiking. Contact the Park office at the number at right if you are interested in taking horses into the Park. 8. Bicycles of any kind are prohibited on all trails within the National Park. For Additional Information contact: Superintendent U.S. 25E South P.O. Box 1848 Middlesboro, Kentucky 40965 (606) 248-2817 ONLINE http://www.nps.gov/cuga/ OR mailto:CUGA_ Superintendent@nps.gov  Martins Fork Cabin, Cumberland Gap ( photo submitted by Brandon Jett )  Bouldering, Cumberland Gap ( photo by George Harbour )  The Great Sand Cave, Cumberland Gap ( photo by George Harbour )  White Rocks Area, Cumberland Gap ( photo submitted by Brandon Jett ) |